Shipping Live Plants: Timing, Packaging, and Heat Packs

I run a small side business selling rare aroids — Monstera albos, variegated Philodendrons, that sort of thing. My first shipment was a $120 Monstera Thai Constellation. I wrapped it in newspaper, put it in a Priority Mail box, and shipped it on a Thursday in January. The buyer opened it Monday. Every leaf was black from cold damage. Dead. Gone. $120 and a one-star review.

That was four years ago. Since then, I've shipped over 2,000 plants with a 97% survival rate. The 3% that didn't make it were mostly USPS delays during holiday season — a problem no amount of packaging can solve.

Plants are unique because they're alive. They need air, they're sensitive to temperature, they bruise easily, and they're on a clock from the moment you seal the box. Every hour in that box is an hour the plant is in the dark, potentially too hot or too cold, without fresh air exchange. Speed matters more for plants than almost any other product.

The Ticking Clock: Transit Time Matters Most

Rule number one of plant shipping: minimize time in the box.

Most plants can handle 2-3 days in a box without issue. After that, you start seeing leaf yellowing, root rot from moisture buildup, and general stress that can take weeks to recover from — if the plant recovers at all.

When to Ship

Ship Monday through Wednesday. This ensures the package arrives before the weekend. A package that arrives Friday evening and sits on a porch or in a warehouse over the weekend is a dead plant waiting to happen.

Preparing the Plant

Start prepping 24-48 hours before shipping.

Watering Strategy

This is counterintuitive: do NOT water the plant right before shipping. A soaking wet root ball creates excess humidity in the box, which promotes bacterial growth and rot. Instead:

• Water the plant 1-2 days before shipping
• Let the soil become slightly moist (not wet, not dry)
• If the soil is very wet on shipping day, let it sit out of the pot for a few hours to drain

For bare-root shipping (no soil), lightly mist the roots and wrap in damp (not wet) sphagnum moss.

Pest and Disease Check

Inspect the plant before shipping. Don't send problems:

• Check under leaves for spider mites, mealybugs, thrips
• Look for signs of root rot (mushy brown roots, foul smell)
• Remove any yellowing or damaged leaves — they'll decay in transit and create mold

Packaging: The Complete Method

Method 1: Potted Plant Shipping

For plants shipping in their pots:

Tape the pot to prevent soil spilling: Place a piece of plastic wrap or a plastic bag over the soil surface and tape it to the pot rim. This keeps soil from going everywhere when the box tips

Secure the pot: Crumple newspaper or use a cardboard ring around the base of the pot to keep it upright and centered in the box

Protect the foliage: Gently wrap leaves with tissue paper. For plants with large leaves, place tissue between each leaf to prevent bruising

Brace the plant: Use crumpled newspaper or air pillows around the foliage to prevent the plant from shifting. The plant should be snug but not crushed

Box selection: Use a box just large enough for the plant. Too much empty space means the plant bounces. Too tight means crushed leaves

Method 2: Bare-Root Shipping (Preferred for Most Plants)

Bare-root shipping is lighter, cheaper, and often better for the plant.

Remove from pot and gently shake off most of the soil

Wrap roots in a small amount of damp sphagnum moss

Wrap the moss bundle in plastic wrap or a damp paper towel, then place in a small plastic bag. Poke 2-3 holes in the bag for air exchange

Wrap foliage in tissue paper

Tape the whole plant to the inside of the box (paper tape or painter's tape stuck to the wrapped stem/roots and the box wall) so it doesn't bounce around

Fill void space with crumpled newspaper

Method 3: Succulent and Cactus Shipping

Succulents are the easiest plants to ship because they're tough and don't need moisture.

Remove from pot, shake off loose soil

Wrap each plant individually in tissue paper

For spiny cacti, wrap in several layers of newspaper (protects the plant AND the handler)

Pack snugly in a small box with crumpled paper

No moisture needed — succulents can go 1-2 weeks without water

Packaging Materials Comparison

Temperature Management

Plants have temperature tolerances. Exceed them and you've got a dead plant.

Heat Packs for Cold Weather

When nighttime temperatures at the origin, destination, OR anywhere along the route drop below 40°F, include a heat pack.

Types of heat packs:

How to use heat packs correctly:

Activate the heat pack 30 minutes before packing (they need air to start the chemical reaction)

NEVER place the heat pack directly against the plant. The surface temperature of a heat pack can reach 130-160°F — hot enough to cook plant tissue. Always wrap the heat pack in 2-3 layers of newspaper

Place the wrapped heat pack on top of the packing material, ABOVE the plant. Heat rises, so it will warm the entire box

Poke 2-3 small holes in the box near the top — the heat pack needs oxygen to function

Use insulated packaging if available (insulated box liners add significant protection)

Cold Weather Shipping Strategy

Hot Weather Challenges

Summer shipping is tricky because you can't cool a box the way you can heat it.

When temperatures exceed 95°F, seriously consider delaying shipment. No plant packaging can keep the inside of a box cool for 3 days in 100°F weather. Wait for a cool spell or tell the buyer you'll ship when conditions improve. Good buyers understand.

Carrier Selection for Plants

USPS Priority Mail is the workhorse of plant shipping. It's affordable and usually arrives in 2 days. The downside: "1-3 days" is an estimate, not a guarantee. During peak season (November-December), Priority Mail can take 5-7 days. Plan accordingly.

For plants worth $75+, I always use Priority Express or a guaranteed service. The extra $15-20 is cheap compared to replacing a dead $150 variegated plant.

Labeling and Communication

Box Labels

Write or stamp the following on the box:

• "LIVE PLANTS" (large, visible)
• "PERISHABLE"
• "THIS SIDE UP" with arrows
• "KEEP FROM EXTREME TEMPERATURES"

Will mail handlers read these? Sometimes. Is it worth the 10 seconds to write them? Absolutely.

Buyer Communication

Good plant sellers communicate proactively:

Before shipping: "Your plant will ship Monday. Expected delivery is Wednesday. Please plan to be home or have someone bring the package inside promptly."

At shipping: "Your plant shipped today via USPS Priority Mail. Tracking: XXXX. A heat pack is included."

Day before delivery: "Your plant should arrive tomorrow. Open the box immediately and let the plant acclimate to room temperature before placing in light."

Unpacking Instructions

Include a printed card in the box:

> Unpacking Your Plant > 1. Open the box immediately upon arrival > 2. Remove packing material gently > 3. If using a heat pack, remove it first (it may still be warm) > 4. Place the plant in indirect light for 24-48 hours — no direct sun > 5. Water lightly if the roots feel dry > 6. Some leaf drop or wilting is normal shipping stress — the plant will recover in 1-2 weeks > 7. Contact us within 48 hours if there are issues

Dealing with DOA (Dead on Arrival)

No matter how well you pack, some plants will arrive dead. Weather delays, mishandling, extreme temperatures — things outside your control.

Build a DOA policy before it happens:

Most successful plant sellers offer either a full refund or a free replacement for DOA plants, with two conditions:

The buyer must send photos within 48 hours of delivery

The buyer must not have let the package sit unopened for days

This policy costs money in the short term but builds the kind of trust that turns one-time buyers into repeat customers.

The key to plant shipping is speed, padding, and temperature management. Get those three right and your plants will arrive looking like they never left home.